Harmony House Rabbit Sanctuary

Health Care Tips


    And the hint is HAY

    Why do I have to take my bunny to the vet for teeth trimming?  Why are my bunnies poops so small?  Why has my bunny stopped pooping?  Why is my bunny overweight?

    The answer to all of these questions may very well be in the diet.  Hay is important to bunnies for MANY reasons.

    An unlimited supply of hay will help to keep your bunnies teeth trimmed, thereby saving you a trip to the vet and money on trimmings every two or three months.  It will also save you money on food because hay bought in bulk is way cheaper than pellets, and if you keep it coming, along with a fresh green salad every day, then you won’t ever need to give your buns pellets at all.

    Hay (along with regular exercise) also helps to keep your buns digestive system in check, which is extremely important for rabbits.  If things don’t keep moving regularly, then your bun can get a blockage, and a blockage can cause death within a matter of days if not treated immediately and aggressively (most times with the help of a vet for subcutaneous fluids) if not caught quickly enough.  The first sign of a blockage is smaller poops.  A (most often) definite sign of a blockage  is no pooping at all, and this is when you’ll need the help of a vet.

    Bunnies can also become overweight if not given hay regularly, and of course we all know that this can lead to other health problems.

    So, if you want a happy, healthy bun, your first clue is in the diet, and unlimited hay, along with some fresh greens every day is the way to start.

    The importance of fresh greens

    Everybody knows that bunnies are vegetarians (if you didn’t, than you do now).  Think about the things that buns eat in the wild…grass, dandelions, even tree bark…and they will of course raid your garden if given the opportunity.  Our indoor buns need some of that same stuff!  Unfortunately, most people who don’t do their research think that buns can live on pellets.  This could be a dangerous assumption…think about it…pellets are not found in the wild.  Most pelleted foods are made mostly of indigestible fillers with some hay for fiber.  They’re packed very tightly, and require a lot of moisture to dissolve into something that your bunny can digest comfortably.  If your bun eats only pellets, and doesn’t drink PLENTY of water and get LOTS of greens, then those pellets WILL block him up and cause health problems that can lead to a painful death if not treated as an emergency. Pellets should be given sparingly…considered to be a treat, and not the main staple of your buns diet…in fact, if you give your bun hay and greens every day, then you NEVER need to give him pellets.

    Bunnies need a constant supply of hay, and a fresh salad every night with a variety of greens is good for health, digestion, and a happy bunny who will look forward to seeing you!

    If you got your bun from a breeder who told you to feed only a certain pellet, remember this: your breeder probably gets a good deal on that food from the company that makes it, and is told that they MUST promote it to get that deal!  If you do insist on giving your bun pellets, there are only two kinds that I would recommend.  The best is Oxbow, and second to the best is Sweet Meadow (in the purple bag only-with timothy and alfalfa hay being the first two ingredients). Never feed a bun food with nuts and raisins and other goodies floating around in it, and never feed your bun anything made by Kaytee if you want to avoid dangerous preservatives.

    Here you can get some great bunny green tips!  http://www.youtube.com/user/FastUpOnRabbitCare

    Spay or Neuter your Bunny!

    Yes, it can be done, and it’s SO IMPORTANT! The cost of spaying or neutering rabbits often varies widely with different veterinarians, so call as many as you can to find out who is the most affordable for you, but remember, rabbit care should be done only by a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits so make sure you ask.

    Spaying your female can help reduce the risk of cervical cancer, which is a high risk in female bunnies. Female rabbits may also spray, and might become aggressive if they are not spayed.

    Male rabbits should be neutered because they will spray, and they may also become aggressive. They should be neutered at about 3-4 months of age. When they reach puberty they become very aggressive, especially toward other bunnies. If they’re neutered while they’re young, their testosterone levels will taper off over the course of about 6 months, and they’ll eventually mellow out. If they aren’t neutered when they’re young, this aggressive behavior could continue indefinitely.

    Always spend lots of time with your bunnies when they’re young. Be gentle, pet them often, and hold them when they’ll let you. Don’t ignore them through their aggressive period. This will only distance them from you and getting them to come around to being your friend later will most likely be more difficult.

    Of course another important reason to have your bunnies spayed or neutered is to help keep the unwanted bunny population down. It only takes a split second for a female to get pregnant when she is only a few months old, and she can have up to 12 babies! It’s very difficult to find loving permanent homes for rabbits, so please be responsible and help keep unwanted bunnies from living sad neglected lives by having your little one fixed right away!

    Aggressive Bunnies

    There could be any number of reasons why your rabbit is aggressive. The first thing to consider is age, and whether or not your bunny has been spayed or neutered. If your bun has not been altered, and is showing signs of aggression, you can safely assume that the two are going hand in hand. Please read the article on spaying and neutering for more info.

    The second thing to consider is your bunny’s surroundings. If you have a loud household, children who are not slow and gentle with your bun, a barking dog, etc., you can assume that your bunny is feeling constantly threatened, and therefore acting out of fear.

    Most rabbits can be relieved of their aggression with patient and careful attention to their needs. I’ve taken bunnies that people have been afraid to feed because the rabbit will attack when their cage door is opened, and seen immediate changes as soon as they are put into an environment that makes them feel safer.

    The job of bringing an aggressive bunny around should be given to one person. That person should be patient, and unafraid to be bitten, understanding that the rabbit is not intentionally being mean, but simply doesn’t feel comfortable with his surroundings. Put the rabbit in a cage with plenty of room to move around. put a box in the cage that he or she can hide in. Make sure there is plenty of hay and food at all times so your bunny doesn’t feel the need to defend his or her food. Put the cage into a room that is generally quiet. If you have two bathrooms, choose one that you won’t be using a hair dryer in, and be sure to clean it only with natural cleaners. A bathroom works well because it offers a good amount of privacy, but gets visited enough so that you can talk to your bunny and give treats when you visit. Don’t try to hold the rabbit at first. When you visit, try offering fresh veggies by opening the door and leaving them on the floor of the cage directly in front of the door. Talk quietly to your bun. It shouldn’t be long before your rabbit becomes comfortable with your presence. You can have other family members do this too, but be sure that it’s done by only one person at a time. When you feel comfortable, try offering the treats by hand. Remember, this is going to take patience, so no matter how comfortable the rabbit seems to be, do not try to pick it up yet. Still, keep your hand by the edge of the door and avoid reaching into the rabbits space. When the rabbit is comfortably taking food from your hand, you can attempt to pet his or her head. Do this by using the backs of your fingertips and petting from the nost to the ears. This is the motion that they use when grooming each other, and if you use the back of your fingertips rather than the front, you have a better chance of not getting bitten because you’ll be coming in at an angle that shows a smaller portion of your hand and bunny will be slightly less threatened. Chances are, your rabbit will at this point back off because he or she doesn’t yet want to be touched. That’s fine, just try again next time you bring a treat. The next step is to co-mingle with your rabbit in his or her environment. Get a bunny playpen or build something that will encase the rabbit, the cage, and yourself. Get in there and sit quietly for a while. Talk quietly, offer treats, and sneak in a petting or two if it’s possible. Allow other members of your family to do the same. Eventually you should be able to bring your pet around if you stick with it and remember that your bunny is probably acting out of fear. Sympathize with the bun and give him what he needs to feel that he can trust you, and chances are good that he will come around and become a very nice pet.

    The key always is to be patient. All the patience in the world may not help if you don’t have your rabbit altered, so make that your first priority. Keep in mind that it takes about 6 months for the testosterone levels in a boy to taper off, so this may not be a project that will take only a few weeks.

    The biggest issue that you’ll have to get around is cleaning your rabbits cage while trying not to upset it. The best way to do it is to get the rabbit out of the cage first.

    I would love to have videos and chronicles of bunnies that have been tamed away from aggressive behavior to post on this site. If you have an aggressive rabbit and would like to keep a diary of your taming procedures including videos, please write to me.

    NO PINE OR CEDAR!

    It’s crazy, but most pet stores sell pine and cedar shavings and bedding, and will tell you that you should use it for your small pets…but it’s as good as slowly poisoning them until their health fails…in fact, it IS slowly poisoning them until their health fails. Softwoods such as pine and cedar contain phenols that your bunny will inhale, especially after it’s been urinated on. These phenols are toxic to your bunny as well as any other small animal. In fact, if you were to get down to your bunny’s level and breathe with him, it may also be toxic to you.

    If you want to do some more reading about it, you can check out these two links, or do some google searching and find lots of others.

    This link will give you some insight about your health an phenols in commercial products that you probably have in your house http://www.e-nujag.cm-uj.krakow.pl/materialy/higiena/main.pdf

    This link will tell you a little more about phenols and your bunny’s health http://www.rabbit.org/care/shavings.html

    And this one gives some examples of testing to find the health problems in bunnies, as well as a chart of different litters and potential problems. http://www.rabbit.org/journal/1/liver-disease.html

    We use wood pellets for a number of reasons. They are made of 100% hardwood with no chemicals, they are very absorbant, they mask the urine smell so well that you can litterally put your nose to the box and smell almost nothing, and they are CHEAP. You can get a bag of these pellets labeled for pets in the pet store for about $18 fo a 40 pound bag, OR if you’re smart, and I think you are…you can get them at any place that sells wood pellets for pellet stoves, and pay about $6 for a 40 pound bag. Pine shavings are cheap…please throw them away and get your bunny started on one of the healthier litters in the chart mentioned above.

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